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Post by navylcdr on May 15, 2021 21:40:29 GMT -5
So, I just discovered today just how undersized the 10 gauge (at most) wire from the batteries to the power center is on my 2021 Sonic 231VRL. I'm getting ready to dry camp next weekend, so this weekend was testing battery capacity. I have 2 6-volt 220 Ah golf cart batteries. Fully charged when I arrived at campsite this weekend. I tried to extend the slide out on batteries before I connected to shore power. The slide out would barely move on battery power. My batteries were fully charged. The 10 or 12 gauge wire installed from battery to converter is just not enough.
Does anyone have any experience running a heavier gauge main feed wire from the battery to the converter? I'm thinking of just running it alongside the propane hose under the trailer outside of the under belly covering so I don't have to cut into underside covering except for 1 drill hole up into the space where the converter is. I'm thinking of running 6 or 4 gauge wire.
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B&N
Seasonal RV’er
2021 272VRK
Posts: 229
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Post by B&N on May 16, 2021 6:54:57 GMT -5
Yes, I just had our STT272VRK in for warranty work. I posted on the General Thread titled 12-volt battery.. Gauge Wire. Our slide wouldn't go out etc and we couldn't run off of battery. Venture and dealer went back and forth for about 2 months. Ended up being a 12 gauge wire run and should of been a 10 gauge. A new 10 gauge wire was run. Lucky for us our first year we planned our camping at state parks with shore power. There's a long thread. At one point, the KZ customer support told us that the units we're not built to be run off of battery. I just blew up. Finally Dave Boggs, who said he was the General Manager for the Venture Brand, called me and said he would get my issue worked out. I'm not sure they actually found the real issue as they ran a 10 gauge to the monitor panel bypassing the back but things were working when I picked it up 2 weeks ago. We're camping next weekend so checking it out more and will run off battery while we have shore power available. Maybe post something there about your issue. With the SportTrek Touring, I finding most people camp where there is shore power. But we camp at National Parks where there is not always power so we have to be able to run off of battery.
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Post by navylcdr on May 16, 2021 22:40:21 GMT -5
Yes, I just had our STT272VRK in for warranty work. I posted on the General Thread titled 12-volt battery.. Gauge Wire. Our slide wouldn't go out etc and we couldn't run off of battery. Venture and dealer went back and forth for about 2 months. Ended up being a 12 gauge wire run and should of been a 10 gauge. A new 10 gauge wire was run. Lucky for us our first year we planned our camping at state parks with shore power. There's a long thread. At one point, the KZ customer support told us that the units we're not built to be run off of battery. I just blew up. Finally Dave Boggs, who said he was the General Manager for the Venture Brand, called me and said he would get my issue worked out. I'm not sure they actually found the real issue as they ran a 10 gauge to the monitor panel bypassing the back but things were working when I picked it up 2 weeks ago. We're camping next weekend so checking it out more and will run off battery while we have shore power available. Maybe post something there about your issue. With the SportTrek Touring, I finding most people camp where there is shore power. But we camp at National Parks where there is not always power so we have to be able to run off of battery. Thanks! I saw your thread. I need extra DC power in my bedroom in the front of the trailer to run 2 CPAPS. I'm thinking about running a 10 gauge wire straight down from the bedroom into the pass-through storage and then out the front of trailer to the batteries. Then maybe splice that into the existing 12 volt wiring for the lights which would feed back into the power center to supplement the already existing connection to the battery. |
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B&N
Seasonal RV’er
2021 272VRK
Posts: 229
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Post by B&N on May 17, 2021 6:43:49 GMT -5
Yes, I just had our STT272VRK in for warranty work. I posted on the General Thread titled 12-volt battery.. Gauge Wire. Our slide wouldn't go out etc and we couldn't run off of battery. Venture and dealer went back and forth for about 2 months. Ended up being a 12 gauge wire run and should of been a 10 gauge. A new 10 gauge wire was run. Lucky for us our first year we planned our camping at state parks with shore power. There's a long thread. At one point, the KZ customer support told us that the units we're not built to be run off of battery. I just blew up. Finally Dave Boggs, who said he was the General Manager for the Venture Brand, called me and said he would get my issue worked out. I'm not sure they actually found the real issue as they ran a 10 gauge to the monitor panel bypassing the back but things were working when I picked it up 2 weeks ago. We're camping next weekend so checking it out more and will run off battery while we have shore power available. Maybe post something there about your issue. With the SportTrek Touring, I finding most people camp where there is shore power. But we camp at National Parks where there is not always power so we have to be able to run off of battery. Thanks! I saw your thread. I need extra DC power in my bedroom in the front of the trailer to run 2 CPAPS. I'm thinking about running a 10 gauge wire straight down from the bedroom into the pass-through storage and then out the front of trailer to the batteries. Then maybe splice that into the existing 12 volt wiring for the lights which would feed back into the power center to supplement the already existing connection to the battery. They added in an extra 30amp fuse for the new wire. I still have to figure out where they put it. If you have a new travel trailer, get the fix done under warranty. Not sure what will void the warranty. |
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Post by WrkrBee on May 17, 2021 6:53:56 GMT -5
Sounds like Venture should be doing a recall.
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Post by navylcdr on May 17, 2021 22:07:24 GMT -5
Thanks! I saw your thread. I need extra DC power in my bedroom in the front of the trailer to run 2 CPAPS. I'm thinking about running a 10 gauge wire straight down from the bedroom into the pass-through storage and then out the front of trailer to the batteries. Then maybe splice that into the existing 12 volt wiring for the lights which would feed back into the power center to supplement the already existing connection to the battery. They added in an extra 30amp fuse for the new wire. I still have to figure out where they put it. If you have a new travel trailer, get the fix done under warranty. Not sure what will void the warranty. You probably need to be looking for something like this:  |
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B&N
Seasonal RV’er
2021 272VRK
Posts: 229
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Post by B&N on May 18, 2021 18:48:07 GMT -5
They added in an extra 30amp fuse for the new wire. I still have to figure out where they put it. If you have a new travel trailer, get the fix done under warranty. Not sure what will void the warranty. You probably need to be looking for something like this: Thanks... I'll have to look for that. Wasn't sure what it would look like. After camping this weekend, I'll call the dealer next week to find out where they put it if we can't find it. |
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Post by navylcdr on May 20, 2021 7:28:39 GMT -5
You probably need to be looking for something like this: Thanks... I'll have to look for that. Wasn't sure what it would look like. After camping this weekend, I'll call the dealer next week to find out where they put it if we can't find it. Mine is right next to the battery disconnect switch under a flimsy plastic cover. |
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marjim
Weekender RV’er
Retired EE, Vietnam Vet, God, Faith, Family & Flag. St. Louis area
Posts: 99
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Post by marjim on May 26, 2021 19:48:58 GMT -5
Howdy Cmdr,
I have attached a wire/ampacity chart for your review. If you follow the guidelines of this you can't go wrong. I would remember that the draw for units will have a larger (surge) at startup then when running. So if the mfg is running under code ( in your opinion) than that would fall under the breaker or fuse circuit for amount of amps/miliseconds until trip. (I was an EE for a machine tool company designing panels and layouts for both AC/DC and automation including robots)
I;m sure your almost done, but a schematic of what you have and what you are adding is the only way to assess what you can handle from front to end. As long as you terminate properly and use correct breakers/fuses you should be alright. I would go to a disconnect switch for a marine unit over the one for the RV. Also, if your wire is too good, your making the unit being supplied the trip point rather than a breaker/fuse.
I use my E-CAD (Autodesk)to solve my layouts and such. If you need me to model something for safety, let me know and I will do it gladly for you or anyone else.
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marjim
Weekender RV’er
Retired EE, Vietnam Vet, God, Faith, Family & Flag. St. Louis area
Posts: 99
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Post by marjim on May 26, 2021 19:59:09 GMT -5
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