jimjr
Weekender RV’er
Posts: 57
|
Post by jimjr on Jul 16, 2022 6:43:15 GMT -5
Yes, it’s July. And yes, I live in North Carolina. But while the mercury currently shows 90, I was thinking about some places we may want to camp for the rest of the year, which got me thinking about winterizing my 231VRL if I’m going to use it over the winter.
Does anyone here use their Sonic over the winter? If so, how do you keep things from freezing both while you’re towing as well as between trips?
To make this more challenging, we live in a townhome community where we can’t (yet) keep our trailer in our driveway our next to our house. There’s a dedicated parking spot for trailers that isn’t near any power.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by WrkrBee on Jul 17, 2022 16:44:30 GMT -5
I winterize ours about the middle of November and let it sleep until March. I blow (1 gallon California Air Tool compressor set at 30 psi) the water lines and pump out until the fog quits coming out the low point drains. Then drain the tanks and water heater. We almost went to Florida last year, after winterizing, and I would have taken the compressor with me to purge the lines before returning.
Edit: Anti-freeze in the drains. Maybe a cup. Our kitchen sink has a RV bladder "P" trap, that holds no water.
|
|
|
Post by earlelaine on Jul 19, 2022 9:53:23 GMT -5
We never get much of a freeze in the winter time in Phoenix, but I will pour a cup of antifreeze down all the traps, shower & sinks.
|
|
jimjr
Weekender RV’er
Posts: 57
|
Post by jimjr on Jul 19, 2022 11:07:43 GMT -5
I was actually trying to stay away from using antifreeze. It seems that it’s an arduous process to return the camper to a usable state.
|
|
|
Post by navylcdr on Jul 19, 2022 22:12:27 GMT -5
I was actually trying to stay away from using antifreeze. It seems that it’s an arduous process to return the camper to a usable state. Antifreeze is about the only way to displace the water in the traps in the drain system. And there is nothing to restore, the first time you use the sink, shower, or toilet the water displaces the antifreeze in the drains. I also have a 231VRL. I drain the water heater, and run the water pump for several minutes with the water heater open, put the anode rod back in the water heater, blow everything out with air until fog stops coming out of everything, including the low point drains. Remove the anode rod from the water heater and leave it out. Pour antifreeze in the drains, at least 1/2 gallon in each drain. And leave a puddle of antifreeze in the toilet bowl. To start up, make sure the low point drains are closed, reinstall anode rod in water heater, attach city water, purge all the plumbing filling it with water instead of air. I have never bothered with bypassing the water heater, nor filling the plumbing with antifreeze.
|
|
|
Post by earlelaine on Jul 20, 2022 7:32:21 GMT -5
I was actually trying to stay away from using antifreeze. It seems that it’s an arduous process to return the camper to a usable state. Antifreeze is about the only way to displace the water in the traps in the drain system. And there is nothing to restore, the first time you use the sink, shower, or toilet the water displaces the antifreeze in the drains. I also have a 231VRL. I drain the water heater, and run the water pump for several minutes with the water heater open, put the anode rod back in the water heater, blow everything out with air until fog stops coming out of everything, including the low point drains. Remove the anode rod from the water heater and leave it out. Pour antifreeze in the drains, at least 1/2 gallon in each drain. And leave a puddle of antifreeze in the toilet bowl. To start up, make sure the low point drains are closed, reinstall anode rod in water heater, attach city water, purge all the plumbing filling it with water instead of air. I have never bothered with bypassing the water heater, nor filling the plumbing with antifreeze. I never put antifreeze in my fresh water tank. Just a cup in the drains. The water lines I blow out with air so there's no need for antifreeze in the waster lines. I leave all the faucets in an open position too. Again I'm in Phoenix so it's rare to have a hard freeze here. If I was in the Midwest there would be a h=whole different process to keep things form freezing.
|
|
|
Post by WrkrBee on Jul 20, 2022 16:20:36 GMT -5
One thing to watch out for are 1/4 turn ball valves, like the freshwater tank and low point drains. If they are cut off, with water flowing out, there is water inside the ball. This little slug of water freezes easily, as most of the drains hang in the flowing air. When they freeze, the pressure pushes out and can split the valve, usually at a seam.
|
|
jimjr
Weekender RV’er
Posts: 57
|
Post by jimjr on Jul 20, 2022 20:12:08 GMT -5
One thing to watch out for are 1/4 turn ball valves, like the freshwater tank and low point drains. If they are cut off, with water flowing out, there is water inside the ball. This little slug of water freezes easily, as most of the drains hang in the flowing air. When they freeze, the pressure pushes out and can split the valve, usually at a seam. You’re talking about the low point drains?
|
|
|
Post by earlelaine on Jul 21, 2022 8:02:14 GMT -5
When I had a 5th wheel RV I would put a sun lamp in the storage compartment, the warmth from the bright light would keep things warm. I'm in Phoenix so I don't worry that much. but if I was in the midwest I would do everything possible to keep things from freezing, that's better than replacing a bunch of hoses and components. It's been several years since I seen ice on my windshield or sidewalks/streets.
|
|
|
Post by WrkrBee on Jul 22, 2022 8:02:38 GMT -5
One thing to watch out for are 1/4 turn ball valves, like the freshwater tank and low point drains. If they are cut off, with water flowing out, there is water inside the ball. This little slug of water freezes easily, as most of the drains hang in the flowing air. When they freeze, the pressure pushes out and can split the valve, usually at a seam. You’re talking about the low point drains? It's stated in the unedited post.
|
|