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Post by gigglecat22 on Oct 8, 2021 8:53:40 GMT -5
Has any winterized this trailer? Looking for simple basic instructions as manual is very vague and dealership wasn't too familiar
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Post by thewolfgang on Oct 8, 2021 10:49:13 GMT -5
All trailers follow the basic same procedure.
There are 2 main options I am aware off:
1. Use the Anti-freeze, and fill your line with Anti freeze.
a. Do the by-pass on the water heater, and drain it separately.
b. Locate your water pump, and instead of pulling water from the fresh water tank, use the tube. Insert it into the 1st bottle, start your pump, and open the 1st water tab, furthest away from the pump. Keep an eye on the level of the bottle, and use 2nd/3rd bottle as needed. Best done with a partner.
c. Repeat for remaining faucets. I recommend doing the fresh water 1st, then switching to the hot water. Make sure you see the pink anti-freeze come out the drain.
d. Make sure you also do this on the outside water supplies, like the shower, and outside sink.
e. Drain your black/gray tanks, and I always add some anti-freeze into the traps.
2. Use compressed air to drain all the water out of the pipes. Almost the same procedure as above, but you'll not be using the pump, but connect to the outside water hookup, instead. I also clear out the water in the black water flush. Only other thing to consider is the remaining water in the water pump area. Never had any problems there.
Personally I prefer method 2, which I did on my 327VIK last winter.
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Post by navylcdr on Oct 9, 2021 20:46:26 GMT -5
This is how I have done both my trailers, a Rockwood GeoPro G17RK by ForestRiver, and my current Sonic 231VRL:
1. Dump grey and black waste tanks. In my driveway, I open the grey waste tank(s) drain valve(s).
2. Drain the freshwater tank by open the drain valve.
3. After the freshwater tank is drained, open both hot and cold low point drains and at least one hot and cold faucet, such as kitchen or bathroom.
4. Start the water pump and let it run for 3-4 minutes. It will not hurt the water pump to run it dry.
5. Turn off the water pump, close the low point drain valves (or install caps), close all faucets.
6. Connect a 40 PSI air supply to the city water connection. I just use my garage pancake air compressor for inflating tires.
7. Once the plumbing is pressurized to 40#, I open every faucet one by one until I get nearly 100% dry air out of them. Do the toilet(s) last so most of the water is out of the plumbing by the time you get to the toilet(s). Don't forget both indoor and outdoor showers.
8. Open low point drains again. When dry air is coming out the low point drains, I unhook the air supply, leave low point drains open.
9. Drain the water heater by removing the anode rod or drain plug.
10. Close the waste valve for the grey water tank.
11. Pour at least 1/2 gallon RV antifreeze down each drain. Don't forget the shower drain. At least 1 gallon through the toilet(s) into black water tank. Leave about 1 cup to cover the toilet drain valve once it is closed.
De-winterizing is as simple as closing or capping low point drains, install water heater anode rod/drain plug, connect city water or fill freshwater tank. Make sure the water heater is filled before turning on heat to it. no need to mess with water heater bypass valves. Sometimes I will do the above procedure 2 or 3 times per winter season if I do any camping during the winter season, or I have someone staying in my trailer in my driveway (it's also my "spare bedroom").
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Post by WrkrBee on Oct 9, 2021 21:00:23 GMT -5
I do the above, also. I blow out the water pump using the antifreeze suction line. With the cold water low point drain open and the suction line open, I blow air in the suction line while running the pump about 10 seconds. This pushes most of the water out of the pump, regulator, and check valve.
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Post by navylcdr on Oct 10, 2021 22:17:43 GMT -5
I do the above, also. I blow out the water pump using the antifreeze suction line. With the cold water low point drain open and the suction line open, I blow air in the suction line while running the pump about 10 seconds. This pushes most of the water out of the pump, regulator, and check valve. I would do that but in order to get to my darn antifreeze suction hose and valve, I have to remove two drawers from a kitchen cabinet, then remove a side partition in the cabinet, then crawl in there to get to the suction hose and valve. Talk about an inconvenient pain in the rear location! My trailer is parked in my driveway and it serves as the guest bedroom when I have overnight visitors, so I may set it up for occupation 2 or 3 times per winter season so I also want it to be convenient to de-winterize and redo during the winter. |
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Post by WrkrBee on Oct 12, 2021 6:54:22 GMT -5
I do the above, also. I blow out the water pump using the antifreeze suction line. With the cold water low point drain open and the suction line open, I blow air in the suction line while running the pump about 10 seconds. This pushes most of the water out of the pump, regulator, and check valve. I would do that but in order to get to my darn antifreeze suction hose and valve, I have to remove two drawers from a kitchen cabinet, then remove a side partition in the cabinet, then crawl in there to get to the suction hose and valve. Talk about an inconvenient pain in the rear location! My trailer is parked in my driveway and it serves as the guest bedroom when I have overnight visitors, so I may set it up for occupation 2 or 3 times per winter season so I also want it to be convenient to de-winterize and redo during the winter. Venture's tag line on the website is "Designed for campers, by campers". I don't think so. Sounds good though. I can get to mine by removing stuff out of the left storage compartment, remove a panel, and the water pump, valve, and hose are there. |
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