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Post by pjhealy on Apr 22, 2022 6:02:34 GMT -5
Greetings!
I'm about to take delivery of a 2021 ST271VMB from the dealer. I've decided to take a credit on the dealer-supplied battery and put it towards a slide-topper. My reasoning is that I'd like to upgrade the battery to a LiFePO4-based battery instead.
I know they're supposed to be drop-in replacements to a traditional lead-acid battery, but I've seen some discussions about the charging circuit and the charger itself.
Does anyone know if the chargers installed in the newer Ventures are compatible with the LiFePO batteries?
Lastly, has anyone isolated the charging circuit on the panel so that the charger can be turned off? (I'm also contemplating a Bluetti power station for the rare times I'm boondocking and I don't want to waste its juice on charging the on-board battery when connected.)
Thanks!
Pat
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Post by jsalbre on Apr 22, 2022 10:52:48 GMT -5
Greetings! I'm about to take delivery of a 2021 ST271VMB from the dealer. I've decided to take a credit on the dealer-supplied battery and put it towards a slide-topper. My reasoning is that I'd like to upgrade the battery to a LiFePO4-based battery instead. I know they're supposed to be drop-in replacements to a traditional lead-acid battery, but I've seen some discussions about the charging circuit and the charger itself. Does anyone know if the chargers installed in the newer Ventures are compatible with the LiFePO batteries? Lastly, has anyone isolated the charging circuit on the panel so that the charger can be turned off? (I'm also contemplating a Bluetti power station for the rare times I'm boondocking and I don't want to waste its juice on charging the on-board battery when connected.) Thanks! Pat The converter in your trailer isn’t specifically designed for lithium batteries, but it will get you about 90% charged. You should t need to do anything special to isolate it, just flip the breaker in the AC panel labeled “converter”. You don’t mention your planned install location, so keep in mind that installing the lithium battery in the tongue battery box leaves something very expensive out there exposed to theft. Also, lithium batteries cannot be charged under 32*. For both those reasons most people generally install them inside the trailer where they’re secure and warm. |
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dlakeman
Weekender RV’er
Please delete my account. I have sold my Stratus.
Posts: 75
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Post by dlakeman on Apr 22, 2022 11:09:03 GMT -5
You should understand if the Charge Controller is rated to charge Lithium batteries. Additionally, understand how many total watts of solar panels the Charge Controller will handle. For example, my Zamp 30A Charge Controller is rated for 510 watts total, and will control various battery types including lithium, lead acid, and others. I have two 170W solar panels on my trailer's roof, and one 45W solar panel on a storage box on the back of my trailer, for a total of 385 watts. I'm under what my Charge Controller will handle.
I like "systems". My solar system is all Zamp components; panels, charge controller, roof port.
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Post by pjhealy on Apr 22, 2022 16:39:17 GMT -5
Thanks JSalbre - much appreciated. I agree that the tongue isn't the best location. My thought was to put a locking battery box in place of the stock one. I'd love to relocate it to the 'basement' but I'm not sure how feasible that is without having the trailer in front of me. The dealer already indicated that it can't be moved inside, but he may have state that thinking I was looking at a lead-acid or AGM battery (which need the venting). With regard to the charger breaker - do you happen to know if the charger is on its own circuit? I might be inclined to replace the stock charger with a better one after I get a better look at what's happening... |
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Post by jsalbre on Apr 22, 2022 17:25:50 GMT -5
Thanks JSalbre - much appreciated. I agree that the tongue isn't the best location. My thought was to put a locking battery box in place of the stock one. I'd love to relocate it to the 'basement' but I'm not sure how feasible that is without having the trailer in front of me. The dealer already indicated that it can't be moved inside, but he may have state that thinking I was looking at a lead-acid or AGM battery (which need the venting). With regard to the charger breaker - do you happen to know if the charger is on its own circuit? I might be inclined to replace the stock charger with a better one after I get a better look at what's happening... The converter should be on its own circuit. Assuming you have a WFCO panel and converter Progressive make a drop in replacement that does lithium properly. |
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Post by bmanfx4 on Apr 26, 2022 4:34:10 GMT -5
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Post by jsalbre on Apr 26, 2022 7:45:32 GMT -5
Turning off the AC breaker for the converter shouldn't affect DC power from the batteries at all. |
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Post by hwdoughty on Apr 27, 2022 12:31:34 GMT -5
Before running around looking for another converter, ask your dealer to go into your specific trailer and get the exact model number. I had the same question as you and when they looked, it turns out my SN231VRL has a WFCO-8955AD, which turns out to be their newest auto-detect converter that will charge lithium batteries at 14.4 volts, then switch to absorption mode at 13.6 volts and is controlled by a microprocessor. So in my case, I don't need to swap out the converter to go to lithium batteries. It is truly plug and play.
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Post by bmanfx4 on Apr 28, 2022 10:33:55 GMT -5
Turning off the AC breaker for the converter shouldn't affect DC power from the batteries at all. And what does that have to do with the question the OP originally posted? "Lastly, has anyone isolated the charging circuit on the panel so that the charger can be turned off? (I'm also contemplating a Bluetti power station for the rare times I'm boondocking and I don't want to waste its juice on charging the on-board battery when connected.) Putting a switch between the battery and the camper electrical system like I suggested will prevent the Bluetti from charging his on-board battery. Flipping the breaker for the converter does nothing except kill 12VDC shore power from the camper. |
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Post by jsalbre on Apr 28, 2022 11:15:05 GMT -5
Turning off the AC breaker for the converter shouldn't affect DC power from the batteries at all. And what does that have to do with the question the OP originally posted? "Lastly, has anyone isolated the charging circuit on the panel so that the charger can be turned off? (I'm also contemplating a Bluetti power station for the rare times I'm boondocking and I don't want to waste its juice on charging the on-board battery when connected.) Putting a switch between the battery and the camper electrical system like I suggested will prevent the Bluetti from charging his on-board battery. Flipping the breaker for the converter does nothing except kill 12VDC shore power from the camper. He asked how the charger can be turned off. Turning off the AC breaker for the converter would stop it from charging the batteries. |
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3rdof5
Weekender RV’er
Finally camping season!
Posts: 55
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Post by 3rdof5 on May 1, 2022 11:22:23 GMT -5
Thanks JSalbre - much appreciated. I agree that the tongue isn't the best location. My thought was to put a locking battery box in place of the stock one. I'd love to relocate it to the 'basement' but I'm not sure how feasible that is without having the trailer in front of me. The dealer already indicated that it can't be moved inside, but he may have state that thinking I was looking at a lead-acid or AGM battery (which need the venting). With regard to the charger breaker - do you happen to know if the charger is on its own circuit? I might be inclined to replace the stock charger with a better one after I get a better look at what's happening... The converter should be on its own circuit. Assuming you have a WFCO panel and converter Progressive make a drop in replacement that does lithium properly. I don’t know about your particular model but the breaker for my convertor in my 251VRK also controls the electric hot water tank. I know this because (for different reasons than you mention) I needed to be able to turn off my convertor as well. I ended up splicing in a control relay to be able to shutdown the convertor remotely while not affecting any other circuits. |
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Post by jsalbre on May 3, 2022 9:08:01 GMT -5
The converter should be on its own circuit. Assuming you have a WFCO panel and converter Progressive make a drop in replacement that does lithium properly. I don’t know about your particular model but the breaker for my convertor in my 251VRK also controls the electric hot water tank. I know this because (for different reasons than you mention) I needed to be able to turn off my convertor as well. I ended up splicing in a control relay to be able to shutdown the convertor remotely while not affecting any other circuits. I went and confirmed on mine and you’re correct, they put the WH and the converter on the same breaker. Im not sure why they’d combine the two, but it is what it is. That should be pretty easy to split out by someone with basic electrical knowledge. |
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