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Post by spiderbobr on Aug 13, 2022 9:34:40 GMT -5
As this process in the gas absorption refrigerator is the highest component of steeling battery voltage, and, it is not really necessary to have this element, (it helps eliminate condensation) has anyone removed the wire that runs this procedure? Earl, this might be right up your ally, as you were a low voltage wire person  . |
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Post by earlelaine on Aug 13, 2022 9:52:06 GMT -5
I'm not sure sure of the wire you are talking about, is it the one on the fins inside the refrigerator with a clip?
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Post by spiderbobr on Aug 13, 2022 14:14:20 GMT -5
No this is one that goes to the board, there are two heaters, one includes the fan, the other is for heating the coils. Both are not really needed, I guess I could start by disconnecting one at a time. There is a company that does this for you but they are in Canada. When you are out boondocking this heater eats up your battery reserve in a day, if it's hot outside, so figured it would be a saver.
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Post by earlelaine on Aug 13, 2022 15:47:11 GMT -5
Ok I see. I use my propane when at home loading up. Can't really plug into a 15amp outlet in our tight quarters and the HOA would send robocop out.
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Post by nanthracite on Aug 27, 2022 6:47:55 GMT -5
I am going to be very interested in hearing how the disconnecting you do works out. Please do give us a follow-up.
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Post by earlelaine on Aug 27, 2022 9:02:27 GMT -5
I'm not sure sure of the wire you are talking about, is it the one on the fins inside the refrigerator with a clip? I never heard anything about discounting a wire to turn off the condensation process. I will have to connect my power meter to the electric to see see how much power it's pulling. With the wife saying she would never go dry camping I guess we would be ok with a residential refrigerator since they are more efficient than the 2/way fridge. |
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Post by spiderbobr on Aug 28, 2022 11:31:20 GMT -5
I am going to be very interested in hearing how the disconnecting you do works out. Please do give us a follow-up. I have not got to this yet. I need to research more myself yet. I did finally get a schematic of the refrigerator so I will get to that after my next project, I think. Hey Earl, did you order your trailer with the residential refrigerator, if you don't dry camp, that's the way to go and it's safer. We had one in our last unit, but had to use an outside icebox when we dry camped, which we do a lot. |
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Post by earlelaine on Aug 28, 2022 13:18:07 GMT -5
I would love to have a 12v or 110v residential refrigerator, I would score some points with the wife : ) I'm hoping I can just slide a fridge in the same space without a lot of modifications. I wonder if I still will need the upper and lower ventilation on the outside? I haven't begun the search yet for a replacement fridge but its on my list. 12v would work pretty good with the solar I already have on the roof.
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Post by spiderbobr on Aug 29, 2022 14:08:25 GMT -5
Earl
The one I had in the Super C, was only 110v no 12v, there was no vent needed with it as it was just like the one in your stick house. However, it did have a 3000w inverter for those times not getting power outside the batteries. And I had 800w of solar to keep it going (alone with the extra batteries) I like my current configuration I got now.
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Post by spiderbobr on Oct 4, 2022 13:33:53 GMT -5
So I talked to the people in Canada that do this option. What they do is put a switch in for the condenser fan so as to shut it off at night while you keep you fridge running on 12v and/or gas. But....if you forget to switch it back you could freeze the coils up during the day. A timer switch could be added but all that seems pretty vague and more of a pain in the you know what. So I going to just leave it as is. If I run into problems while boon docking, I'll find a way to deal with it. Even an ice chest that I always carry in the van. There are really so many options. I'll let you know if I come up with a better scheme.
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